Did you know Mount Rainier is an active volcano? Or that with 25 major glaciers on it, Mount Rainier is the most glaciated mountain in the mainland US? How about the fact that Mount Rainier has thousand year old trees growing on it? And did you know that when a piece of a glacier breaks off and comes crashing down, it makes a sound that, just for a moment, can panic a 40 year old man who (having just learned it’s an active volcano) thinks it might be the volcano erupting? Those are all facts we learned at our first stop along the West coast, Mount Rainier National Park in Washington state.
The Campground
For our visit to Mount Rainier, Kristy lined us up with a great campground between the small cities of Packwood and Randle just south of the park. We arrived on the Sunday of Labor day weekend, and the place was packed. This campground, Cascade Peaks, was easily the largest one we have ever stayed at, but it was also quite rustic, with spots tucked all around in the woods. That first night we were a little worried it was going to be too busy for our taste, but it cleared out quickly the next day, and we practically had the place to ourselves. The highlight was absolutely the zip line, of which Owen took full advantage.
Grove of the Patriarchs
I made a small error in suggesting that we do a short hike on Sunday evening after we arrived. The Grove of the Patriarchs trail is a short, kid friendly hike featuring a suspension bridge and an opportunity to walk through a forest of giant, thousand year old trees. Now don’t get me wrong, the hike was awesome, and we highly recommend it, but it turned out it was super busy on the Sunday evening of Labor Day weekend. Not only was it busy, but it was full of touristy folks who were not great about respecting the park and staying on the trail. We did mask up and power through it though, and I’m glad we didn’t miss this feature.
TIP: Don’t miss the Grove of the Patriarchs trail, but time it for an off-peak visit. Weekdays in the early morning or evening are best.
Shadow Lake
Before heading to Shadow Lake, we first took a detour to the Emmons Vista Overlook in the Sunrise area of the park This was a short walk to this overlook, which offers a grand view of the Emmons Glacier.
While we were taking in the expansive vista, a section of the glacier calved off. I heard it, but didn’t see it, and the sound it made as it crashed to the rock and river below briefly panicked my brain into thinking that Mount Rainier had just come alive and was erupting. Here are the thoughts I had as that happened:
Oh Sh!t! Is it erupting?!?
I guess if it is, this is an acceptable way for us to go out. It’s been a really good run.
Oh wait, that was just ice falling into the canyon, and now I feel foolish, but happy that we will live 🙂
After that fun experience we went on to tackle the Shadow Lakes trail, which at 2.6 miles is a little longer than we usually attempt with Owen. It has a starting elevation of around 6,000 feet, so it gave us a bit of a workout, but we successfully made it up to the Lake where we enjoyed a satisfying lunch in front of a crystal clear, snow-melt fed mountain lake. We saw a few fish in the lake, along with some turtles and frogs. On our way back, I was giving Owen an assist by carrying him on my shoulders when we were startled by a deer bounding across our path not more than 10 feet in front of us. By the time we realized what had happened he was already gone. Owen insisted that we make a special trip back to the ranger station just to tell them about that experience.
Nisqually Vista
The Nisqually Vista trail in the Paradise area was one of my favorites at Mount Rainier. It’s an easy 1.1 mile loop hike along a paved path, and it offers stunning views of Mount Rainier’s peak along with the Nisqually glacier. We did this trail in the evening (5pm-ish) and we encountered maybe two or three other hikers along on the whole trail. Looking out at the glaciated peak it was difficult to get a sense of scale. We could see where the Nisqually river emerged from under the glacier and flowed through the ice carved canyon, but it seemed as though the river could have been five feet across, or fifty feet across. It was an incredible vantage point.
Mount Rainier was a great surprise for us all. We knew it would be an excellent park, but we were not fully prepared for the scale and beauty of it. Below is a short time lapse video of the drive up to the Paradise area of the park.
Glacier National Park is located along the Canadian border in Northwestern Montana. In recognition that nature and the local wildlife recognize no political boundaries, the park cooperates with it’s Canadian sister park (Waterton National Park) to form the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park. This ongoing joint effort between the US and our Northern neighbors in Canada began in 1932 and is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Glacier NP Sign – West Entrance
Through skilled planning from Kristy, we were lucky to snag a campground spot just a few miles from the Glacier West Entrance. This was especially important since the East entrance, and most of the East side of the park were closed due to COVID-19.
After a few months of travel we are beginning to learn more about our personal travel style, and our planning preferences. While digital planning resources are in plentiful supply, we found that we prefer an old fashioned printed map to get our bearings when arriving at a National Park. So our first order of business was a quick pop-in just inside the park boundary to grab a map and a copy of the printed guide to the park.
Glacier is a pretty large park (1,583 Sq Miles), but it turns out there are really only a few roads. Going-to-the-Sun road is the main thoroughfare and one of the highlights of the park.
Going-To-The-Sun Road
Let me start by saying this road is a marvel of historic engineering. Construction on it started in the 1920’s and completed in the 1930’s. After driving on it, it’s hard to imagine the difficulty of building Going-to-the-Sun road with 1920’s technology, and it’s amazing that it is still drivable nearly 100 years later.
Pull-off on Going-to-the-Sun
The road traverses the park from the West entrance near Apgar Visitor Center to the East Entrance at the Saint Mary Visitor center. However, the road was closed East of Rising Sun due to Covid-19. From West to East it meanders around scenic Lake McDonald, then follows snowmelt fed McDonald creek through the forest, until starting it’s climb up to Logan Pass.
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Going-to-the-Sun is considered one of the most scenic, as well as one of the more scary, drives in all of America. It is quite narrow, and cut directly into the side of the steep glacially carved mountains. There are no shoulders on the road, but there are small barriers that separate you from the steep cliffs just a couple feet from where your tires are rolling along. Due to the narrow width, and the presence of low, rocky overhangs, vehicles over 10 feet tall, 8 feet wide, or 21 feet long are not permitted. Our Dodge Ram 2500 truck is 8 feet wide at the mirrors and 20 feet long with the tow hitch ball removed…so I was a little worried.
McDonald Falls
Well, we survived to write this article! While the drive did require strict concentration and attention, traversing the road in our truck was not a problem. The worst it got was when we decided to fold in the passenger side mirror because we were close to the rock face on one side with oncoming traffic a few inches away on the other. Aside from that, we just took it slow enough to feel comfortable, and it was fine. I’m glad Kristy took a lot of pictures, because my memory of the drive is mainly about the surface of the road and the placement and size of the barriers that separated us from the cliffs.
TIP: Going To The Sun can be scary, especially if you or any of your passengers are generally anxious or nervous people. Make sure your driver is well rested and prepared for the drive. If you have kids, plan some activities to keep them quiet, or practice “quiet time so the driver can focus” ahead of time. If you are feeling pressure from those behind you, pull off at one of the many slow vehicle pull-off’s and let folks pass by. If you have a large vehicle (dually truck, RV, etc), consider renting a smaller one outside the park for the day or taking one of the tours, if they are operating.
Arêtes
Despite the anxiety inducing drive, this trek lived up to the hype. The views along the way, and up top at Logan pass were spectacular. The mountains here are glacier carved Arêtes, which is to say, they are exceptionally steep walled, and in my opinion especially scenic.
When the whole road is open, it can take 2 to 2.5 hours to drive it one way, without stopping. Be sure to check on road status in advance, because the road is prone to closures, and is only open a few months of the year due to huge amounts of snow that fall in the area. If you are at Glacier, I highly recommend this drive, so plan accordingly 🙂
Logan Pass
At 6,646 feet, Logan Pass is the highest vehicle accessible point in the park. There are spectacular views from the visitor center here, but it’s worth taking some time to do one of the various hikes that kick off from this area. We chose the 2.9 mile out-and-back “Hidden Lake Overlook” trail. This was a bit longer than we usually do with Owen, not to mention it was at elevation which made it more difficult, but it was worth it.
Hidden Lake Trail at Sunrise
The weather in this area can be wildly different than down at Apgar, and it was downright chilly until we got into some direct sunlight. The trail winds up through subalpine meadows, crosses several snowmelt-fed brooks, and offers views of not only the steep mountains, but also wildlife like mountain goats and bighorn sheep. The trail is popular, but since parking at Logan Pass is limited, there is sort of an upper limit on how many people can be in the area at any given time, which keeps the crowds small.
TIP: The parking lot at logan pass fills up EARLY. We arrived at the visitor center at 7:30am the first day and it was already full. On our next attempt, we got there around 6:15am and found a parking space without trouble, but we were far from the first ones there. While this area is slightly more scenic in the morning, it tends to be less busy in the evenings. To avoid the crowds (but risk a dark drive down Going-to-the-Sun road) pack yourself a picnic dinner and enjoy an evening hike.
Lake McDonald
Skipping stones, Lake McDonald
Lake McDonald is set just inside the West Entrance at Apgar Village. This beautiful, glacier fed lake was probably Owen’s favorite spot in the park. The “beach” is composed of multi-colored river rocks. If you enjoy the very serious sport of skipping rocks, as Owen does, you are sure to enjoy this area.
The Lake is perpetually cold, but don’t let that stop you from taking a dip or kayaking around it. Within five minutes of arriving at the beach Owen was in up to his knees, and then we saw a brave soul walk out on a dock, strip off his shirt and do a cannonball into the water. Frankly, I think that move was more bold than some of the folks we saw riding bikes up the Going-to-the-Sun road.
While Apgar Village is the easiest access point for Lake McDonald, there are many others. We took some additional time to explore the lakeshore from the Fish Creek campground and picnic area on the west side of the lake where we were rewarded with a totally empty beach, along with a fresh perspective on the mountain peaks.
Glacier’s Glaciers
At this point in its history, Glacier is named more for how it was created, rather than what it is now, or what it will be. There are roughly 25 glaciers of various sizes still active in the park, but the current trend indicates that all of them are receding. It’s possible that there will not be any active glaciers in Glacier National Park within our lifetime. We are glad we were able to experience this park and view some of the remaining glaciers first hand. It’s a good reminder that while geology and climate epochs work on timescales that we have a tough time conceptualizing, neither stands still. It’s important to appreciate our current moment in history, and do what we can to reduce our impact on these ecosystems.
Glacier Gallery
Driving on Going-to-the-Sun road was an experience all it’s own, but the dramatic mountain vistas and crystal-clear, glacier-fed lakes were on another level entirely.
It’s hard to write about Yellowstone, it’s just too big! I’m not sure I have the appropriate adjectives to do it justice. When Kristy and I were discussing our experience at Yellowstone, the one word that best summed it up was wild. Please accept the below lengthy, but inadequate blog post, and if Yellowstone National Park is not already on your travel bucket list, do yourself a favor and add it.
Yellowstone was the first official National Park, established by congress and signed into law by Ulysses S. Grant in 1872. Our National Parks, as well as National Forests, WIlderness areas, Monuments and Memorial would greatly expand over the subsequent 50 years, but visiting Yellowstone it’s easy to understand why this land inspired our nation’s leaders to protect it first. There is a vast array of unique geologic features, plantlife and wildlife.
Yellowstone Gallery
Yellowstone was the first National Park ever created. It remains one of the most popular parks, and with good reason. The park is huge, and contains an astonishing number of breathtaking features. We spent five days on the West side and then decided to spend another two on the North side. Needless to say, Yellowstone impressed us.
We started our exploration of Yellowstone on the West side, from just outside the aptly named town of West Yellowstone. We spent a week here, and then realized that was not enough time, and planned a second visit a few weeks later from the North entrance. In total we made seven day-trips into the park, and while we did hit most of the popular features, I feel like we only began to scratch the surface.
Here are some of the highlights of the trip, along with some family and toddler tips.
Old Faithful
Yeah, this is the #1 tourist stop in the park, but not without good reason. This geyser offers spectacular eruptions with reasonable regularity (every 30-90’ish minutes). We saw this erupt a total of three times over two days. The main viewing area is very accessible to all and offers a variety of viewing angles from as close as you can safely get. But for a more rewarding experience, consider the hike up to Observation Point. We managed this hike in about 15-20 minutes with Owen. There is also a substantial boardwalk system behind Old Faithful that runs throughout the basin. It’s worth spending some time walking around to check out some of the lesser known geysers and springs.
TIP: For an incredible experience, and a much safer one during COVID-19, arrive at Old Faithful at dawn. The viewing area was practically empty, perhaps 20-30 people there compared to the several hundred or even thousands that could be there later in the day.
Grand Prismatic Spring and the Midway Geyser Basin
Midway Geyser Basin, and Grand Prismatic Spring are a truly unique experience. Kristy described it as feeling prehistoric, like we could walk around a corner and come face to face with a dinosaur, and I agree. The steam coming up off the hot springs combined with the sulfurous odor and striking colors and textures makes you feel like you have been transported back in time.
We actually visited here twice, once in the very early morning, which was an especially memorable experience because we were literally the only ones there. The downside of showing up early here is that the cooler temperature caused thicker steam and fog, obscuring most views of the springs. We returned later in the day to view the basin from the Fairy Falls Trail (Grand Prismatic Overlook) and were rewarded with stunning visuals. For those that are curious, the vibrant rainbow colors found in the spring are from a type of bacteria referred to as “thermophiles”, which thrive in high temperature water. The different colors are associated with the different bacteria found in different temperatures. It’s really a site to behold and in my humble opinion this is a must see.
TIP: For the best view, and photo opportunity of Grand Prismatic Spring, hike .6 miles from the Fairy Falls Trailhead up the Grand Prismatic Overlook Trail. It’s a mild hike, although it does have some elevation gain. Totally doable with a toddler though.
Grand Canyon of The Yellowstone
Near Canyon Village we found a multitude of incredible trails and vistas around the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. While it’s not quite as grand as The Grand Canyon in Arizona, it’s still a sight to behold. There are a number of short hiking trails and scenic overlooks on both the North Rim and the South Rim of the Grand Canyon area. Each provides a unique perspective on one of the two waterfalls in the canyon (Upper Falls and Lower Falls). We also stopped at the Gibbon Falls overlook, which was less trafficked and right on the way to Canyon Village when coming from the West Entrance. All of the trails along the road were very accessible and as toddler friendly as a trail along a cliff can be.
TIP: Arrive early to avoid the crowds (as always). The North Rim Drive offers a quick looping drive with many short hike and scenic overlook options.
Norris Geyser Basin & Artist Paintpots
The Norris Geyser Basin has a few small buildings, including a gift shop and museum, but all were closed when we were there. In this basin area we completed a short hike along a boardwalk to see Porcelain Spring as well as several fumerols (steam vents). The fumerols in this area were much more active that the others that we had seen so far, and they lend the basin a distinct sound and odor. That sense of being in a prehistoric land was significantly amplified here.
The geologic features come in many forms at Yellowstone, and if what you are looking at is not a spring, a geyser, or a fumarole, it might be a mud pot. Mud pots are formed when the heat and minerals from a hot spring or fumerol dissolve the rock around it turning it into something that looks like a pot of boiling mud. Found just off Grand Loop Road near Norris Geyser Basin, the Artist Paintpots are a collection of colorful hot springs and a few of these mud pots. We completed the short hike through the forest to reach the Paintpots early in the morning. There were only a few other folks on the trail and it was a peaceful hike out to a very unique and interesting destination.
Tip: Walk along the boardwalk at Norris Geyser Basin till you reach Crackling Lake. Pause and stand or sit quietly to take in all the sights, smells and sounds of this uncommon ecosystem. We’ve taught Owen to do “two minutes of silence” to be still and appreciate nature.
West Thumb
The West Thumb Geyser Basin is centrally located in the park, making it a fairly long drive from any of the park entrances. But if you can plan out your day to accommodate it, it’s worth your time. West Thumb is situated right on the shore of Yellowstone Lake. There are a number of Hot Springs and Geysers right at the edge of the lakeshore, and some that are actually in the lake. One of the hot springs, which is named “Fishing Cone” bubbles to the surface from a cone just above the water level along the bank of the lake. As the legend goes, it used to be possible to catch a fish, then flick it into the cone where it would be cooked, then reel it ashore, without it ever leaving the hook. As you might have guessed, this practice is no longer allowed for a number of reasons.
Tip: Be sure to do the full boardwalk loop trail that goes down to the lake and then past the Abyss Pool, it’s a short and accessible hike, with up close views of the various springs and geysers.
Mammoth Hot Springs
We visited Mammoth Hot Springs on the second leg of our Yellowstone journey, changing campgrounds from West Yellowstone to the city of Livingston, so that we could come at it from the North Entrance. There is a small village inside the park in Mammoth, and in the future it might be fun to return and stay right in the village. Mammoth is another geologically unique feature in Yellowstone. It’s a vast area composed of various mineral structures, but the travertine “terraces” are the main attractions. The Hot Springs in this area bring with them minerals that create the stepped appearance you can see in our photos. We feel particularly thankful we visited Canary Spring, as just a few days later, Yellowstone NP tweeted that the spring had gone dormant!
TIP: Upper Terrace Loop Drive is closed (indefinitely?) but is walkable. Park at the entrance to the road, and take the trail/boardwalk that heads back towards the Lower Terraces. It’s a bit less busy than the Lower Terraces parking area, and you can still walk through the entire springs area.
Lamar Valley
We came at Lamar Valley from the North Entrance, as it would be a bit of a trek from the West Entrance. That said, we wanted to be there at dawn, and we were coming from Livingston, which is still a two hour drive…so we brewed some coffee, woke Owen up and hit the road at about 3:45am. It was a super early day, but it was worth it!
Lamar Valley is best known for being a place to experience the wide array of wildlife that call Yellowstone home. Bison, wolves, bears and other animals are often spotted here. We appreciated the low number of humans at the early hour, and while we didn’t see any wolves or bears, we did see hundreds of bison. Unbeknownst to us, we were there right in the middle of rutting season (i.e. mating season). There were multiple herds of bison roaming freely and the males were bellowing loudly. We got “stuck” in what Park Rangers refer to as a “wildlife jam”. Basically, the bison decided the road belonged to them, and we just sat there and waited till they decided they were ready to move on. We gave them as much space as possible, but some of them decided to pass us by, and walked incredibly close to the truck. It was humbling being in a 3/4 ton pickup and feeling vulnerable due to the size and power of these ~1,500 pound creatures.
Tip: Arrive just before dawn or dusk to miss the crowds, and have the best opportunity to see the wildlife here. If you are patient, there are several great pull offs along the NE Entrance Road to sit, wait, and watch.
This is the end
So that’s it! Our Yellowstone experience summed up in a long, but still somehow incomplete feeling blog post. Both Kristy and I agree that we enjoyed Yellowstone more than we expected. So let me leave you with one final tip, if you are going to make the trip to visit Yellowstone National Park, give yourself more than a couple days. Sure you can drive past all the touristy points in two days and snap a photo while hanging out the window of your car, but where is the fun in that? If you can, arrange to spend a full week here, I think you will be glad you did.
After departing Rapid City, we made a slight detour down into Northern Colorado to see friends and family, as well as celebrate the Fourth of July. We considered stopping in at Rocky Mountain National Park while we were there, but alas, entry reservations were not available. We’ll return to RMNP a different time.
From Colorado, we made our trek to Grand Teton up through Rock Springs Wyoming, and then on to the city of Jackson. Fun fact: The “Hole” part of “Jackson Hole” refers to a flat, plains-like area surrounded on all sides by mountains. So Jacksons Hole refers to a specific part of the terrain in the area. The actual city name though, is simply Jackson, Wyoming.
Jackson was a surprisingly busy little town, with more than its fair share of traffic on the roads. I can understand the crowds though, as it’s a fun little town, with remarkable wilderness a stone’s throw in any direction. Most of the businesses in the city were open, surprisingly, although there was a strict mask mandate city wide. Since we chose to avoid the town and crowds for this trip, this is another destination we would like to return to in the future, perhaps a winter ski-trip some day!
Grand Teton National Park was one of the parks that both Kristy and I were most looking forward to, and it did not disappoint! The jagged rocky mountains rise at a seemingly impossibly steep incline out of the ground. In some places it looked as though the mountains had suddenly burst straight out of a lake. The rate of elevation change on these peaks is some of the steepest in the world, and it makes for striking visuals. We were standing at the base of the mountains in 80 degree July heat, but looking up we could see snow on the peaks.
We made several trips into the park to experience the mountains from different perspectives and at different times of day, and each view was completely unique. From the East side of the range, morning sunlight definitely provided more dramatic detail across the park. We most enjoyed the views from Mormon Row (the iconic barn pictures) and Jenny Lake. The view from Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor center on the south side of the park is also striking. From here we did a short hike to the Murie Ranch, where we were the only ones on the trail.
Owen taking a family selfie on one of the toddler friendly trails
One thing about Grand Teton, it was a bit less toddler friendly than some of the other parks we have been too. We only found a handful of hikes that were reasonable for a three year old (and nervous parents), and some of the best rated hikes and views involved either a ferry boat ride or a several mile long out-and-back hike. Nevertheless, we had an incredible time here, and it gives us reason to return in the future!
A brief final thought, there is nothing quite like breathing in a deep breath of crisp, fresh mountain air, with just a hint of pine in it. Of that, we had plenty here, and it was glorious.
Grand Teton Gallery
“Grand” is an understatement when describing Grand Teton National Park. Our family especially loves the mountains, and Grand Teton was nothing short of spectacular. As an added bonus we learned one of the peaks next to Grand Teton is Mt. Owen. As you might imagine, Owen enjoyed this fact.
After our great experiences in Theodore Roosevelt National Park, we departed North Dakota and headed south to Rapid City, South Dakota. Rapid City served as our basecamp for several days and four destinations in the area: Mount Rushmore National Memorial, Crazy Horse Memorial, Wind Cave National Park and Badlands National Park. Each of the four of those locations was between 45 and 60 minutes from our campsite on the eastern outskirts of Rapid City.
Mount Rushmore
First on the agenda was Mount Rushmore. Both Kristy and I have seen this National Memorial before, but it has been quite some time. This was, of course, Owen’s first time here. Entry to the memorial is free, but they do charge for parking. We arrived early in the day, so we were able to snag a great parking spot, and there were very few people present. There is a small complex in the main viewing area, but most of the shops and restaurants were closed. The main path that runs from the viewing area to the base of the monument was also closed for construction, however some of the other hiking trails were open.
The National Park Service had an information tent open though, and Owen was successfully sworn in as a Junior Ranger. The Park Ranger seemed somewhat impressed that Owen was able to recite from memory the names of all the presidents on the monument 🙂
The scale of this memorial is hard to imagine if you haven’t seen it, and there are many interesting facts to be learned about the conception and construction of the memorial. It is definitely worth visiting if you are in the region, however the main area is relatively touristy. The surrounding Black Hills forest is beautiful, and there are lots of great campgrounds and hiking trails to explore.
Crazy Horse
After leaving Mount Rushmore, we continued on to the Crazy Horse Memorial, which is about 30 minutes away. This memorial has a very different feel than Mount Rushmore. For one, the memorial is still under construction. The memorial is described as “a monument honoring North American Indians” and consists of the under construction stone monument, as well as a museum and university. Construction is funded primarily by donations, and when completed, the monument is expected to be the largest of its kind.
Visiting the memorial had a strong impact on both Kristy and I, and hopefully Owen as well. It was a good reminder of the storied history of our nation and the impact that settlement across the U.S. had on the land’s indigenous peoples. Additionally, learning about the construction plans and timelines, and watching that unfold in real-time is fascinating. In a world where we expect instant gratification, thinking about a project that has taken decades already, and likely will not conclude for decades to come, provides a new perspective on time and tenacity.
If you are in the area, or are planning a trip to Rushmore, make it a point to visit Crazy Horse Memorial.
Rushmore & Crazy Horse Gallery
Even though neither is a National Park, these two memorials were obvious stops for us when we were in the Black Hills of South Dakota. Both were powerful experiences in their own ways.
Wind Cave National Park
Wind Cave National Park is unique in many ways. The scenery in the park is beautiful, as is most of the land in this area. There are herds of bison roaming the park along with other wildlife like elk, pronghorn and apparently ferrets, cougars and bobcats. The highlight of the park is an extensive underground cave system that is one of the largest and longest in the world. It is still being explored and mapped to this day. This is also the first cave system to be designated a National Park, anywhere in the world. Unfortunately, due to COVID-19, entry to the cave system was closed, although I’m not sure Kristy would have gone in even if it was open…something about feeling claustrophobic. Nonetheless, we would love to revisit this park in the future to see the caves.
Wind Cave Gallery
Visitation of the main cave system was closed when we were at this National Park, but that didn’t stop us from seeing lots of wildlife, and feeling the earth breathe at the incredible Natural Entrance.
Due to the closure of the underground caves, attendance at this park was extremely light. We saw a couple rangers, and just a few other visitors while we were there. Even with the caves closed, we were still able to see one of the main highlights of the park, which was a short hike to the “natural entrance” of the cave system. The natural entrance is a small opening (roughly one square foot) in the rock face that “breathes” air in and out. To the Lakota (Sioux) Native American Tribe this area was considered sacred. The first documented encounter with the cave entrance was in 1881. Brothers Tom and Jesse Bingham heard an unusual sound when passing by the area, and when Tom looked into the opening, the wind coming from the cave entrance blew the hat off his head.
Owen was enthralled with both the cave, and its history, and snagged himself another Junior Ranger badge by telling a Park Ranger how the wind blew Tom’s hat “right off his head!”
The “wind” that blows from the natural entrance is the result of differences in barometric pressure inside and outside of the cave system, and it can change substantially over the course of the day. Depending on weather, there can be a wide variation in the “strength” of the wind. However, the knowledge of the scientific explanation doesn’t diminish the incredible experience of standing at the entrance and feeling our earth breathe.
Even with the main cave system closed, we are grateful we were able to experience the natural entrance, and look forward to seeing more of this park in the future.
Badlands National Park
And last but not least, Badlands National Park. Badlands was the last stop on this leg of our journey, and in retrospect it deserved much more time to experience it all on it’s own. The landscape at Badlands is otherworldly. It is incredible to be driving along what seems like an ordinary grassland, only to turn a corner and discover you are on a 500 foot cliff. The erosion carved cliff faces expose a rainbow of unexpected colors and patterns, which continue to erode “rapidly” at the pace of around an inch per year.
Badlands Gallery
Badlands National Park surprises us with its diversity of landscape and geology. We were unprepared for the surprisingly drastic changes in elevation and colors. One day was not enough, this one is on our list to revisit in the future.
The geology of this area is the obvious highlight, and there are a number of scenic roads and hikes to experience in this park. For this trip, we only visited the North Unit, entering at the Pinnacles entrance. We came through the city of Wall which is the home of Wall Drug.
Quick side note, Wall Drug is a city-like retail complex that is advertised for literally miles around. It’s not a particularly good destination in the time of COVID, but we did mask up and stop long enough to get a donut. Kristy stated that it ranked near the top of her all time favorite donuts, and I would have to agree.
Wall Drug donuts
After finishing our donuts, we drove the Badlands loop road to the East, stopping at several of the overlooks to take in the unbelievable views. The Pinnacles Overlook was probably the most photogenic, but each was unique in it’s own way. We continued on to the Ben Reifel Visitor Center which is where Owen earned himself another Junior Ranger badge at the Ranger tent out front. We exited the park at the Northeast Entrance to head back to Rapid City.
This drive through the park was incredible, and worth experiencing even if you don’t stop along the way. It showcases many of the different landscapes of the park. That said, we would definitely like to return in the future to experience some of the hiking trails and the gems found off the loop road.
Bonus: Stratobowl
In addition to the famous parks and landmarks above, we also took the time to do a short hike to the Stratobowl. This was a mild hike, at the end of which we were rewarded with an impressive view of the bowl. There were several high altitude balloon flights launched from this site in the 1930’s, and it is regarded as the birthplace of the space age. I particularly enjoyed this history given my involvement in the Geek Squad Icarus Project.
Voyageurs National Park was the first park on our agenda. Conveniently located in our own backyard, the park is just a few hours drive north from the Twin Cities in Minnesota. Voyageurs sits on the border between the U.S. and Canada, and is quite remote.
This was a perfect park to get our trip started. With room for only about twenty RV’s, our campground was small, well spaced out, and had everything we needed…except wifi or cell phone service. Frankly, it was a nice way to transition into the travel lifestyle, giving us a few days to unwind, disconnect and relax. The skies were clear of both clouds and light pollution, gifting us with incredible starry nights. The best part was we were just a few miles down the road from the Voyageurs Ash River Visitor Center, along with many great hiking trails. Over the course of our five day stay, we were able to make several trips into the park, as well as to some interesting places in the surrounding area.
Voyageurs is made up of a lot of lakes, rivers, and waterways, so a lot of the park is only accessible by boat. Since most boat tours were not operating due to COVID-19, we were only able to see a small fraction of the park. But with great pine forests, and beautiful views of the lakes, the parts we did see were incredible!
We only encountered about five other humans during the entire time we were in the park. One of them was on a hiking trail, and he kindly warned us to beware of the porcupine on the path a short distance ahead of us. While we didn’t see the porcupine, we did see a wide assortment of birds, as well as mosquitos, dragonflies and horse flies that were the size of birds.
While in the north woods, we also took the opportunity to visit a few spots that had been recommended to us by either friends or locals. The Vince Shute Wildlife Sanctuary offered an up close look at bears unlike anything we have experienced before. Owen proved to be quite adept at spotting the bears that were up in the trees. We also stopped by Sha Sha Resort for dinner and a few cold beverages on their deck overlooking Rainy Lake. Lastly, we were able to find another local resort with an open pool that was available to non-guests. We were the only ones at the pool, and possibly the only ones at the resort!
Enjoying the deck at Sha Sha Resort.
Voyageurs definitely got us started off right, and now that we are more familiar with it, we would love to return at some point in the future to experience more of it!
Our Picks
Ash River Visitor Center
Beaver Pond Overlook Trail
Sha Sha Resort Patio/Deck
Vince Shute Bear Sanctuary
Voyageurs Gallery
This incredible park was the first stop on our grand National Park adventure. On June 15th 2020 we left our home base in the Twin Cities to head north to Voyageurs, which is in Minnesota, right on the Canadian border. The park was beautiful, and the people were friendly…when we saw any. It was almost like we had this wonderful wilderness all to ourselves!
