Hytreks

Oh, For Fun

Author: Ben Hymans

  • Rocky Mountain National Park – Colorado

    Rocky Mountain National Park – Colorado

    Dates we visited: July 19th-20th, 2021
    Where we stayed: Loveland RV Resort and Coyote Mountain Lodge

    The crisp mountain air and dramatic alpine vistas of Rocky Mountain National Park hold a special place in my heart. Located in northern Colorado, Rocky Mountain is just a few hours west of the college town of Fort Collins. In my younger years, this is where I attended CSU (for a few years) and then lived, worked and played (for many more years). A decade after moving to Minnesota, I would return here with the love of my life to hold our wedding ceremony at Sprague Lake inside the National Park.

    This time around, we were here in July instead of March, and there were wildflowers in bloom rather than snow on the ground and ice on the lakes. This national park is great in any season, and Kristy and I were thrilled that we got to experience the summertime highlights along with Owen.

    Estes Park

    Estes Park is the gateway city for Rocky Mountain National Park. It’s a beautiful mountain town. There are several campgrounds here, but the drive into the mountains is windy and narrow in spots. So we decided to leave the trailer down at the Loveland RV Resort, and get a hotel room in Estes Park while visiting RMNP.

    Rocky Mountain was among the first to implement a timed entry system, and tickets go quickly. If you are planning to visit, make sure to make your reservation early, especially if you plan t visit the popular bear lake area.

    Our first stop after arriving in the park was the Beaver Meadows visitor center to pick up Junior Ranger materials for Owen. After that, we headed up Bear Lake Road to Sprague Lake. The hike around Sprague Lake is relatively short and accessible. It was a hot day, but there was still snow visible on the craggy peaks in the distance. When we reached the dock, about halfway around the lake, Kristy and I enjoyed reminiscing about our wedding day at this spot. After we completed the hike, we continued the scenic drive up Bear Lake Road, then back down through Moraine park, before heading back to Estes Park for dinner.

    The dock at Sprague Lake, where we were married in 2015
    The dock at Sprague Lake, where we were married in 2015

    It’s pretty common to spot Elk in the town of Estes Park, and this day was no exception. We saw several young bucks wandering through the city. It’s quite an experience to see these creatures just walking around!

    Moose to Marmots

    On our second day in Rocky Mountain we got an early start and entered the park through the Fall River entrance. This route took us through Horseshoe park, an open space where the mountains rise on all sides and the Fall River meanders through the valley. Not more than five minutes into the park we saw a gigantic moose bathing in the river. A few minutes later a group of motorcyclists came down the road. The deep and loud exhaust from the bikes startled the Moose and it galloped off across the valley.

    We continued through the valley and started making our way up the mountain to Trail Ridge Road. It’s billed as the highest continuously paved road in the United States and reaches a peak elevation of 12,183 Feet. That’s a full mile higher than the mile-high city of Denver. The drive is incredible, and while you might imagine it as rough mountain terrain, there is actually an abundance of life here. Even above the treeline, we spotted marmots, prairie dogs and birds, not to mention a variety of colorful wildflowers. The road traverses the National Park, running from Estes Park all the way to Grand Lake. Once we reached the Alpine visitor center, we decided to make our way back down.

    A marmot perched on the Trail Ridge Road “guardrail”
    A marmot perched on the Trail Ridge Road “guardrail”

    One thing we didn’t do this time, that I’d like to try next time is take Old Fall River Road from the bottom, up to the Alpine Visitor Center. I’m told this road is a rather intense, but rewarding and scenic drive. The one-way road winds back and forth up through the switchbacks of the steep mountains.

    Rocky Mountain National Park is one of our favorite parks in the NPS system, and one of our favorite places in the world. It’s popularity has soared recently, and understandably so. If you are planning a visit here a few tips:

    • Don’t forget to get a reservation!
    • Consider visiting in an off-peak season. Winter is especially beautiful.
    • Trail Ridge Road is only scheduled to be open for a few months of the year, and it may close on a whim due to weather. Plan accordingly.

    If you are not planning a trip here…get on it! This park, and the surrounding areas are stunning. There are activities and sights for all skill levels and interests.

    Rocky Mountain Gallery

    Way back in March 2015, we got married in this National Park. It was a small, outdoor ceremony that required a short hike through the snow to the dock at Sprague Lake. This park is particularly special to us, and we enjoyed sharing it with Owen for the first time.

  • Gateway Arch National Park – Missouri

    Gateway Arch National Park – Missouri

    Dates we visited: July 6th, 2021
    Where we stayed: St. Louis West KOA

    Gateway Arch National Park, set along the bank of the Mississippi river in St. Louis, is unique in the National Park system. The park is many things. It is a beautiful green-space in the heart of a city. It is a striking triumph of architecture and engineering. It is a memorial to Thomas Jefferson for opening up the U.S. west to expansion, as well as to Dred Scott, who’s historic court case was heard nearby. And it is also a sprawling museum that documents the history of indigenous people in the area.

    Owen enjoying the green space around the Arch

    Because this park is intertwined with the city, it reminded us a little bit of Hot Springs National Park. After finding a good parking spot nearby, we walked along the Gateway Arch Trail to reach the main arch and museum entrance.

    We decided not to ride to the top of the arch on this trip. Kristy and I have each done that ride in the past, and it’s something we would love to come back and do with Owen at a future date.

    The entry to the museum underneath the Arch

    We spent some time exploring the museum and its numerous interactive exhibits about the history of the region, and the construction of the arch. Kristy and Owen got a bit more time in the museum than I did. That was because I made the mistake of bringing my hiking backpack, along with it’s ever-present bear spray, with us. Turns out bear spray is not allowed inside the Arch or Museum, so I had to make a quick run back to the truck to drop it off.

    The Junior Ranger program here is based entirely on activities within the museum, and is geared for kids a bit older than Owen. That said, we were able to work through enough of the booklet for Owen to score another Junior Ranger badge from a friendly and informative Park Ranger.

    The focus on history and architecture at Gateway Arch National Park, along with its urban location, makes it distinctive in the National Park system. Owen was a little bummed he didn’t get to ride to the top this time, but that’ll be something to look forward to in the future!

    Gateway Arch Gallery

    With striking architecture, a sprawling museum, and many stories to tell, Gateway Arch National Park is not your typical National Park. And, as we learned the hard way, unlike a typical National Park, having bear spray in your backpack is not advisable here.

  • Indiana Dunes National Park – Indiana

    Indiana Dunes National Park – Indiana

    Dates we visited: July 1st, 2021
    Where we stayed: Cassidy Motel & RV

    On the banks of Lake Michigan, not far from Chicago, lies Indiana Dunes National Park. Similar to its neighbor a few hundred miles to the East (Cuyahoga Valley), Indiana Dunes is an oasis in an urban setting. Originally reserved as the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore in 1966, these dunes were just upgraded and renamed to a National Park in December 2019. The sand dunes here didn’t evoke quite the same level of excitement and wonder as White Sands National Park, but it’s sandy setting on the banks of giant Lake Michigan is inspiring in it’s own way.

    Mount Baldy

    Of course, our first stop was at the Visitor Center to pick up Junior Ranger materials for Owen. After that we headed over to Mount Baldy. Mount Baldy is a large Dune that slopes down to a Lake Michigan beach. The trail up Mount Baldy itself was closed, so we decided to head over to the beach. A short hike through the tranquil woods quickly gave way to trudging through the sand. Owen was thrilled with the steep hike, and subsequent roll down the dune to reach beach-level. We explored the waterfront for awhile, and got in some good exercise by climbing up, down, and all around the steep dunes.

    Riverwalk

    After Mount Baldy, we drove west through the park along the waterfront to reach the Portage Lakefront and Riverwalk. This was an unusual drive. The park is segmented into a few different sections, that are separated by private and commercial properties. To reach the Riverwalk, we drove past a heavily industrialized area, which we later learned was a US Steel plant. It wasn’t exactly the picturesque, untouched land that we often see in National Parks, but it made us that much more grateful for the sections of lakefront that have been protected. We walked along the shore, and then took the trail out to the end of a pier. We were surprised by the size of the waves on the lake, and Owen delighted in the spray kicked up as the waves crashed against the breakwater.

    Indiana Dunes is a welcome respite in an industrialized area. It doesn’t have the the same obvious natural splendor as some of the other parks in the NPS system, but it offers something maybe more valuable, perspective. As we paused at the end of the pier at the Portage Lakefront, waves crashing and spray misting us, we were able to observe a protected sandy beach as well as an industrial steel manufacturing plant. It was a stark reminder that all the benefits of our industrial progress come with a price. Balancing progress with preservation has never been more difficult, or more important.

    Indiana Dunes Gallery

    Set on the southern shore of Lake Michigan, Indiana Dunes was an oasis in an industrialized area. We frolicked in the sand, and took in the views of this great lake.

  • Cuyahoga Valley National Park – Ohio

    Cuyahoga Valley National Park – Ohio

    Date we visited: June 28th, 2021
    Where we stayed: Woodside Lake Park

    After visiting Acadia National Park in Maine, we headed south and east through New Hampshire, Vermont, New York and Pennsylvania. The next park on our agenda was Cuyahoga Valley in Ohio. Cuyahoga is set near Lake Eerie, just south of the city of Cleveland. One of the few parks that sits near a metro area, Cuyahoga offers a ton of green space, hiking trails, rafting on the river, and history.

    Brandywine Falls

    The trail to Brandywine Falls

    Our first stop in the park that morning was at Brandywine Falls. We lucked out as there was a ranger that had some useful tips, along with Junior Ranger materials, stationed at the trailhead. We completed the short hike into the woods, down a boardwalk, and into the gorge to check out the falls. After taking in the peaceful but powerful view, we made our way back out before it got too hot outside.

    Our next stop was the Boston Mill visitor center. This building had recently been renovated, and we were able to peruse several exhibits and displays describing the history of the area and the park.

    The Ledges

    A quick water break at The Ledges

    Based on a recommendation from some friends, our next destination was an area known as The Ledges. We followed the Ledges Trail, but took a shortcut past a sprawling green field and then deeper into the woods.

    That trail highlights the surprisingly dynamic geology of the area, opening up to a conglomerate precipice which is hidden by the dense foliage. While Owen loved hoping from rock to rock and jumping over small crevices, Kristy and I were a bit more nervous. We all made it out without incident though, and found our way safely back to the truck.

    We only spent one day at Cuyahoga, but it is easy to see why the Ohioans love it so much. The variety of trails, natural space and river adventures are a gem right in their backyard. We also took the opportunity to get a 3-Way Cincinnati Chili from Skyline; a not-exactly-fancy regional speciality that happens to be one of my favorite dishes. Many argue that it’s not really “chili”, but whatever you want to call it, I enjoyed it!

    Cuyahoga Valley Gallery

    Set just south of the city of Cleveland, Cuyahoga Valley National park offered us waterfalls, unexpected rock formations and authentic 3-Way Cincinnati Chili nearby.

  • Niagara Falls State Park – New York

    Niagara Falls State Park – New York

    Dates we visited: June 23rd, 2021
    Where we stayed: Niagara Falls North / Lewiston KOA

    After visiting Acadia in Maine, we made our way back south and west to New York State. After spending some time with some of Kristy’s family near Elmira NY, we made our way up to Niagara Falls. Technically, Niagara is a New York State Park, not a National Park, but since we were so close, we decided we couldn’t skip it. I’m glad we made the time to see it, as it was an incredible experience!

    The Falls

    Upon arriving at the falls we were surprised by how touristy it was. It was definitely a different experience than the National Parks that we frequent. There was no shortage of souvenirs shops or restaurants.

    Unfortunately, the Canadian border was still closed due to Covid at the time of our visit, so checking out the falls from that vantage point was off the table.

    After taking in the view of the falls from prospect point we debated whether or not to do the iconic Maid of the Mist boat tour. We opted in, and I’m really glad we did. If you plan to visit Niagara it is absolutely worth it to experience the falls from the water. An interesting factoid, the Maid of the Mist boats are now all electric, so there is no engine noise or exhaust.

    The boats were operating at half capacity and with mask requirements due to covid. The fact that they were running at half capacity was kind of awesome, there was much more room on the boat than usual. After a short trip, we reached the base of the waterfall. The tumultuous roar of the falls combined with the spray of the mist enveloping us was memorable. Watching the immense flow of water cascade over the falls, it was hard to comprehend the raw power in front of us. This five senses experience had Owen thinking that the boat actually went through the waterfall.

    Even though it was a bit more touristy than we prefer, we thoroughly enjoyed our Niagara Falls experience. We even had time to stop and get some Tim Hortons donuts while we were in the area, which were quite delicious. Niagara Falls is a true marvel to behold, and we’re glad we had the opportunity to experience it.

    Niagara Falls Gallery

    A massive and iconic waterfall, some electric boats, and delicious donuts. Our Niagara Falls visit was a success.

  • Acadia National Park – Maine

    Acadia National Park – Maine

    Dates we visited: June 9th & 10th, 2021
    Where we stayed: Mt. Desert Narrows

    After visiting the Great Smoky Mountains, we headed north up through New England to reach Acadia National Park. Acadia is located on an island along the Atlantic coast, near Bar Harbor, Maine. If you want to sound like a local Mainer, it’s important that you pronounce that “Baahr Haarbahr”. Acadia is home to a variety of ecosystems, and is known as place in the U.S. where you can first see the sun rise. Kristy scored us a great campground right outside of the park, so we were able to make several trips in to explore.

    Cadillac Mountain and Thunder Hole

    Kristy capturing the Cadillac Mountain view

    Acadia is unique in the respect that the majority of the land was donated over time to from local landowners. This resulted in a bit of a patchwork of park land across the islands and peninsulas. One of the main attractions, found on the east side of Mt. Desert Island is Cadillac Mountain. At an elevation of 1,530 feet, it is the highest point along the east coast. If you want to experience what it’s like to be the first person in America to see the sunlight of a new day, the summit of Cadillac Mountain is where you can make it happen. Cadillac Mountain does require a timed entry pass. Unfortunately, we were not able to secure a pass for sunrise, but we did get one for mid-day. After completing the scenic drive around the area of the park we did a hike at the summit, and took in the splendor of the park from this elevated vantage point.

    We also stopped off at the famed Thunder Hole. This is a section of the coast where the ocean has eroded a unique formation in the coastal rocks. A few hours before high tide, as the tide is making its way inland, this formation creates a thunderous sound that can be heard up and down the trail. We made it to the Thunder Hole, but we didn’t time it quite right and experienced something more akin to a mild rumble, rather than thunder.

    Jordan Pond to Wonderland

    Popovers at the Jordan Pond House Restaurant

    On the recommendation of a friend, we decided to stop for lunch at the Jordan Pond House restaurant. While the restaurant was open for indoor dining, it was a beautiful day and we opted for eating out on the lawn overlooking the lake. The warm sun and cool breeze made for a stunning natural setting. All the food was good here, but their popovers are their claim to fame. If you stop here, order extras of these tasty treats. If you limit carb intake in your diet, plan this stop on a cheat day, because these are delicious.

    Later in the evening we headed to the southwestern tip of the island, known within the park as Wonderland. This area of the park is much less visited, and we encountered only a handful of other visitors. Here we were able to hike through the woods and explore tide pools in search of anemones, crabs and other sea life. We even found a beach where we were able to kick off our shoes, roll up our pants and enjoy the Atlantic ocean lapping at our feet.

    We enjoyed our time at Acadia. We especially appreciated the cooler climate found here as compared to the heat and humidity we experienced further south. With its coastal waters, laid back attitude, and delicious popovers, this was certainly a unique park experience for us. The only thing we feel like we missed on this visit was a trip out to Schoodic Point. The entire Schoodic Peninsula was closed due to rains washing out several trails and roads. Maybe next time!

    Gallery

    The delicious “popovers” were the unexpected surprise at Acadia National Park. We also had a blast exploring tide pools, climbing mountains and visiting lighthouses.

  • Washington D.C.

    Washington D.C.

    Dates we visited: May 27th & 28th, 2021
    Where we stayed: Washington DC / Capitol KOA

    After visiting Shenandoah, we took the opportunity to spend a few days in our nations Capital. While it’s not technically a “National Park”, the Washington, D.C. area is packed with monuments and history, much of it administered by the National Park Service. We were also thrilled to catch up with a few friends in the area.

    The National Mall

    Over the course of a few days we wandered all over the National Mall. We took the opportunity to check out the Lincoln Memorial, the Washington Monument, the Sculpture Garden, the Capital building, the White House and several other landmarks. It’s truly awe-inspiring to visit these locations and think about all of the history and sacrifice that has brought our country to the present day.

    Unexpectedly, we were in DC to experience the Brood X 17 year cicada emergence. This sounds like it could be a concert or festival, but the once every 17-years awakening of underground bugs, was in in fact much weirder. Once we got over the weirdness we were excited that we got to experience this rare event!

    Our visit here was just few short months after the January 6th 2021 capitol insurrection. The barricades and visibly increased security around the town were very obvious. It was a good reminder that America is a constant work in progress, and there is plenty of work still left to do.

    Washington D.C. Gallery

    Not technically a “National Park”, but our trip through D.C. and the National Mall had no shortage of National Monuments and other historical sites. It also had bugs…

  • Shenandoah National Park – Virginia

    Shenandoah National Park – Virginia

    Date we visited: May 24th, 2021
    Where we stayed: Endless Caverns

    After New River Gorge, the next stop on our National Park tour was Shenandoah. Set in the northern portion of Virginia, not far from the border with West Virginia, Shenandoah is only about 75 miles from the bustling Washington DC area. The rolling hills and serene vistas are a stark contrast to the DC cityscape that we would soon visit. Our campground even had a private cave system that we were able to tour. It was a far different experience, with much tighter spaces, than the National Park caves we have visited. If exploring small underground spaces, sometimes in pitch black, sounds like fun to you, definitely check it out!

    Skyline Drive

    A scenic overlook along Skyline Drive

    Shenandoah is a long and narrow park. Skyline drive is the main thoroughfare and scenic drive. We traversed the park starting at the north Front Royal entrance station and making our way south. The drive itself winds through the mountains, and there are many pull-offs to take in the rolling forested countryside. Skyline drive roughly follows a ridge line, so there are great views to both the east and west. The road connects to the Blue Ridge parkway on the south side.

    Blackrock Summit

    The boulder field on Blackrock Summit Trail

    The Blackrock Summit trail is a 1.1 mile loop that follows the Appalachian trail for most of the hike. It starts off in a secluded area of peaceful forest. Eventually, and rather suddenly, it opens up to wind around large boulder field.

    This trail is also a “TRACK” trail which is a trail identified specifically as being good for kids. We greatly enjoyed this hike and Owen could hardly be contained while exploring the boulder field. The view into the valley from the summit was also spectacular. The various shades of green, which are the hallmark of this forests in this region, were on full display.

    After having visited the likes of Glacier, Grand Teton and Mount Rainier, we have to temper our expectations of “mountainous” terrain for the parks in the east. The mountains here may not be as sharp and spectacular as those to the west, but the rolling green vistas and dense forests offer a more subdued and peaceful beauty. The soft tranquility and expansive vistas we found here are a pleasant reminder that our National Parks come in all kinds of different shapes and sizes, each offering a truly unique experience.

    Shenandoah Gallery

    A long and narrow park, it’s possible to drive the entire length of Shenandoah along Skyline Drive. That drive is certainly scenic, but our favorite part of the park was a hike through a boulder field at Blackrock Summit.

  • New River Gorge National Park – West Virginia

    New River Gorge National Park – West Virginia

    Dates we visited: May 17th, 2021
    Where we stayed: Rifrafters Campground

    New River Gorge National Park in West Virginia is America’s newest National Park (or at least it was when we visited). Upgraded to National Park status in December of 2020, this destination was a late addition to our travel itinerary. With its status change still recent, attendance was light, but accommodations were a little more difficult to come by. Luckily Kristy scored a tip from a fellow traveler about the Rifrafters Campground in Fayetteville, which turned out to be great.

    Canyon Rim

    Despite its name, the New River may be one of the oldest rivers in America. It’s been flowing on its present course for around 65 million years. This has given it ample time to carve out a striking gorge through the Appalachian mountains.

    Spanning the gorge is the park’s most memorable feature, the New River Gorge Bridge. Completed in 1977 this bridge is the longest steel span bridge in the western hemisphere, and the third highest bridge in the US. We enjoyed multiple perspectives of this engineering marvel from on top, beside, and below it.

    The Canyon Rim Overlook Boardwalk Trail is a short trail from the Canyon Rim visitor center. It involves a lot of steps if you go to the overlook, which we did and you should. The overlook offers an expansive vista of the bridge and gorge. We also drove the scenic drive (Fayette Station Road) from the Canyon Rim visitor center. It took us on a winding one way road down into the gorge, across the river and under the massive steel bridge.

    Sandstone Falls

    The National Park surrounds the New River for about 20 miles of its winding north/south route. The bridge is but one of the many scenic areas in the park. After our adventures on the north side, we decided to head south. The route took us through several small towns before arriving at Sandstone Falls.

    A short hike allowed us to take in the falls, first from a boardwalk, and then up close and personal from the riverbank. We slowly made our way down the trail, spotting chattering chipmunks and other small woodland creatures as we went along. We explored the rocky beach, and the lush forrest along the river. Owen relished being the hike leader and choosing our path around the falls. It was both serene and adventurous, and we thoroughly enjoyed it.

    We’re glad we amended our travel plans to visit this new National Park. I have a feeling that the park, and surrounding area, will change in the coming years once the secret gets out. One thing we didn’t do on this trip that we would like to do in the future, is to raft down the river and through the park. The area is well known for white water rafting, and I can imagine seeing the park from that perspective would be a wholly different experience.

    New River Gorge Gallery

    New River Gorge is America’s newest National Park. First we drove across the gorge, then down into it, then we hiked around it. Supposedly the white water rafting here is amazing, but not ideal for a four year old. Alas, that will be an adventure for a future visit.

  • Mammoth Cave National Park – Kentucky

    Mammoth Cave National Park – Kentucky

    Date we visited: May 14th, 2021
    Where we stayed: Horse Cave KOA

    Mammoth Cave National Park was technically the third National Park we visited that is known for its cave system. Previous caves and caverns included Carlsbad Caverns and Wind Cave. Although, we were not able to enter the cave at Wind Cave due to covid restrictions at the time.

    We had to clear up a quick misunderstanding with Owen upon our arrival at Mammoth cave, as it seemed he was expecting to see a Woolly Mammoth. As it turns out, the park’s name is a nod to the size of the cave, and not the behemoth animal. This cave system boasts 400 miles of explored rooms and passages, and the Park Service estimates there could be another 600 miles here that have not yet been mapped.

    A bat named Nugget

    The cave at Mammoth was open and explorable when we were there, but the tours and ranger led activities were limited due to Covid. The only option available was the Self Guided Extended Historic Tour…so that’s what we did! The tour is roughly a two mile hike, although there are options to shorten it. It is categorized as an easy hike. There are some stairs, but nothing like the forty flight descent down into Carlsbad Caverns.

    Mammoth has Rangers covertly stationed throughout the cave system to provide information or assistance as needed. Owen of course questioned the first one we encountered: “Are there bats down here?” The Ranger responded “There sure are!” and to our surprise continued “Like this one right here!” as she shined her light toward the ceiling to show us the “chicken nugget” sized bat resting there. From that moment on, Owen couldn’t stop talking about “Nugget”.

    Mushrooms and Tuberculosis

    We were surprised to learn about the storied history of Mammoth Cave. Before becoming a National Park, it was used for all sorts of commercial ventures. Two stories were particularly interesting.

    First, there was a section of the cave that was briefly used to cultivate edible mushrooms, but the first crop was mysteriously sabotaged. The mushrooms never made it to harvest and the company that was growing them quickly went out of business. The case was never solved.

    Second, in search of a cure for tuberculosis, a wealthy doctor tried bringing folks deep into the cave for extended periods of time. The idea being that the cave had some kind of unexplainable healing properties. You can still see the structures where the patients were housed. As you might imagine, this didn’t turn out particularly well. The ranger that shared this history with us was a descendent of a slave laborer who was forced to assist the doctor in this endeavor. It sounded like a rather gruesome ordeal all around.

    While Mammoth cave may not have been as visually stunning as the otherworldly rock formations at Carlsbad Caverns, it’s sheer size and history made it a fascinating stop on our adventure. The historic tour winds through very large passageways, so it should be no problem for most people, even if you have a bit of claustrophobia. Once the park resumes normal operations there are many additional, narrower routes for those who are more adventurous. Kristy would probably sit those out, but Owen and I might be up for that challenge if we return!

    Mammoth Cave Gallery

    Mammoth cave is mammoth big. With 400 miles explored and potentially another 600 miles unexplored, it’s the longest known cave system in the world. We also came across a tiny bat that we named Nugget.